Domaine Pinson Chablis Premier Cru Mont-de-Milieu 2022 (750ml)

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Producer	Domaine Pinson
Country	France
Region	Burgundy
Subregion	Chablis
Varietal	Chardonnay
Vintage	2022
Sku	12428
Size	750ml

 

BH

93

V

92

Aromas of citrus fruits, fresh apple and oyster shell. The flavors show energetic white peach, salty stony minerality and white pepper. An utterly seductive wine with terrific breadth and a tactile finish.

In a region so steeped in history (and prehistory) as Chablis, Domaine Pinson stands out, having farmed in this famous village since 1640, making them one of the oldest families in the entire appellation. Today, the domaine is run by the dynamic Charlène Pinson and her father Laurent. They own 14 hectares of the crème de la crème of Chablis terroir, with prime holdings in six premier crus and the grandest cru of them all, Les Clos.

This father-daughter team are great stewards of their famed parcels, never using any herbicides or pesticides in the vineyards, and working with organic methods to express these limestone-laden sites. In the cellar, their philosophy is defined by an informed flexibility. Some vineyards are barrel fermented, while others are fermented in tank. Aging sees a variety of vessels, including older barrels and stainless steel; Charlène and Laurent follow no dogma, only using experience to determine the best approach to express their terroir. It is an intuitive process, one which results in a stunning display of intense purity across the Domaine Pinson range, seamlessly marrying the historical grandeur found in Kimmeridgian marl and the noble Chardonnay of Burgundy.

As is often the case with Mont de Milieu, there is a trace of exoticism suffusing the white and yellow fruit aromas along with classic Chablis elements of oyster shell, iodine and algae, all of which is trimmed in noticeable though still reasonably subtle wood influence. There is excellent size, weight, density and power to the succulent but muscular larger-bodied flavors that coat the palate with sappy dry extract while delivering excellent length on the overtly stony finish. This bone-dry and highly recommended effort is also going to require patience.  Drink 2030+

The 2022 Chablis Mont de Milieu 1er Cru sees ten months on the fine less. It has a keen, fresh, marine-influenced bouquet with dewy green apples and kiwi fruit. Fine delineation. The palate is fresh and vibrant, the acidity well judged with just a slight creaminess creeping in toward the finish. I'd afford this 12 months in bottle; it should evolve into a fine Mont de Milieu. Tasted blind at the BIVB tasting in Chablis.