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On tiny plots in San Giovanni, nestled among some of Monforte d'Alba’s best-known Crus, Gianfranco Alessandria and his family craft classic Barolo, Barbera, and Dolcetto. Their boutique winery is family-run through and through, as it has been since Gianfranco’s father started growing grapes in the 1940s. After his passing in 1986, Gianfranco took over the family’s four hectares in Monforte d’Alba and worked to reducing his yields, encouraging better ripening and healthier, higher-quality grapes. He didn’t sell any wine in his first few years, but at the urging of his cousin Mauro Veglio, he began bottling some in the late 80s. He eventually released his first Barolo in 1993, and it immediately earned critical acclaim.
The Gianfranco Alessandria 2021 Barolo shows terrific balance with dark fruit, crushed flowers, licorice and cinnamon sweetness from oak aging. The wine matures in 225-liter French barrel, with 20% new wood. From this vantage point, while the wine is so young, you can already see how it will come together with bottle age thanks to silky tannins and crunchy fruit. However, the alcohol content is high at 15%. This is a production of 15,000 bottles plus some magnums. Anticipated Maturity: 2026-2040
Vanilla-kissed cherries mingle with warm pie spices, like walking into a bakery just as the morning's first creations emerge from the oven. The wine sweeps across the palate with generous fruit, though oak flexes its muscles a bit too eagerly, leaving a trail of sweet spices in its wake. -J.P.
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